Trekking the Annapurna Circuit. Part 3.

DSC_0221Day 9

The second rest day in Manang. Today we finally walked around the village which is not very interesting apart from the surrounding mountains scenery. Rumour has it that local people are doing the path to the Pass and we met some people who said that tomorrow they are going higher. Though nobody knows, how it will be on the other side of the Pass, will they make the path there also. Descending is always more dangerous than ascending. Last year, I climbed Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe, and I know how hard is above 5000 m. It‘s not a place for jokes, so all day I was considering is it worth the risk. Thing is, nobody can tell, is it really safe. On the other hand, only three days allocate me from the Pass.

Day 10

However, rational mind won the battle against my pride and we decided to go back. I feel relief as all the considerations are over and I know, that in few days cold and snow will be over.

While going down we met a lot of people, who were going up and I had to tell them the same story about Manang, snow, risk and so on. I am not in a mood of talking because it‘s still hard to admit the failure.



Manang scenery

Manang scenery


While in the morning snow is frozen and one can walk on it, after few hours it starts melting and soon the boots are soaked. Since we stayed in Upper Pisang, while on our way up, now we change the place and stay in Lower Pisang. The prices in our lodge are annoyingly high.

All the streets are muddy and there is nothing to see in the village, so as always we just stay in the lodge. While it‘s sunny and you can sit outdoors it fits me fine.

All the life on the trek is very simple: you need only food and warmth, the rest are details. It‘s so primordial, but I like it.

Our lodge keeper goes to the other side of the street and lies next to her neighbourh, while she searches for fleas or other creatures in her hair. After this procedure, lodge keeper comes back to prepare us a lunch. Her neighbour breastfeed her baby at that time, while smoking the cigarette.

Later, we meet Tila, 26 years old, mountain guide in Annapurna region. She was raised in a traditional Nepalese familly, that had a little farm. Tila‘s two younger sisters married at the age of 14. She didn’t want to end up like this, took the exams and became a mountains guide. At first her family wasn’t very pleased with her decision, but after some time they got used to this. I met Tila along with her client – 62 years old woman from USA. It’s not the first time I had conversations with much elder people and I always enjoy them very much. I met some very open minded and interesting story tellers along the way and this is the best gift you can get anywhere.

Struggling through the snow

Struggling through the snow

Day 11

I paid 270 rupees (2,7 $) for two boiled eggs – that’s a fucking robbery. I could buy 20 eggs in the market of Lithuania. As we have a lot of time on the trek and the plan is to stay here for 18 days, we walk just few kilometres today. It’s only 10 a.m. and I am not sure what to do as I don’t have anything to read.

I try to disperse my boredom by going for a walk near the river, just to stay alone in tranquillity. I just sit and watch all the beautiful nature that surrounds me. It would be nice to do a remote trek without people. Usually, I am quite fed up with civilization. When I am in the nature, I don’t want anyone around. I am from the nature, but on the other hand there is a feeling somewhere deep inside, that I don’t truly belong here. I’m intruder.

Day 12

Today we left the snow zone. It’s strange to go back, because some places are familiar, on the other hand, there are a lot of stuff that I didn’t notice while going up. There are more and more people on the trek and I am happy that we started, when it was not so much of them.

The jeep drivers sometimes stop and ask, if we want to go down with them to Besisahar. That’s so annoying as I don’t want to be disturbed while walking and I want to go down by myself.
We walked 22 kilometres and stayed in Timang, a city which offers a beautiful scenery, though it’s cloudy today. I miss warmth and green grass.