Trekking the Annapurna Circuit. Part 4.

DSC_0263Day 13

I descended into a deep hollow with a river full of boulders that form some small waterfalls. The trees are covered with moss and it’s so peaceful here. Today we are still staying in Timang, so as always I explore the surroundings. While being in this hollow, I wondered, if I could hang around in this place every day, would it excite me the same way?

I tried to jump from one rock to another in order to reach the other side of the river, but I slip and fell into water almost up to my waist. But it’s still fun. I continue my hike for two or three more hours while I am dry again. Just an ordinary day in Karolis life.

Day 14

I’m annoyed with Nepalese, who are shouting ‘Namaste, Lunch’ etc. I don’t like that and usually I will never go the place that is trying to invite me in this kind of way.

As always our old friend – rain come along, so we stay at Dharapane. The food is ugly. While local menu offers pizzas, pasta or other Western dishes, it seems that locals don’t know how to prepare them. Once I got pizza with carrots and cabbage, next, I order macaroni and I get them boiled without any sauce.


What is sad, that as in India, everyone see us as a big, stupid bag of money. I know they are poor, but sometimes people try too hard just to earn an extra penny.

My watch says that today is Sunday. Only a year ago, Sunday would be a lazy day at home with two hours break in a swimming pool, movie and anxiety that tomorrow I have to go to work. I would like to live that Sunday once again and come back to the trek on Monday.

Even though the weather is still bad – I am glad that I am here while many people will go to work tomorrow with agony in their faces. I’m one lucky bastard.

Day 15

Aiste couldn’t stand the bad weather that we had to face every day and took a jeep to Kathmandu. So I was left alone. It’s funny, because these last 3 days will be my longest solo hike.

While I was resting on the path two donkeys passed me: one of them stopped and started to low, so I moved aside and only then he dared to pass; the other one just kept walking without any hesitation. How differently two animals of the same kind react to something.


I was walking quite slow most of the time, enjoying the views and stopping for a rest whenever I wanted.

It’s strange to be in a lodge, when all the space in the room belong to me. Actually, being alone is a kind of adventure to me. It’s been some time since I did something on my own as I’m always with other people.

DSC_0258Day 16

Annoying day as I get lost for a few times and wasted a bit of time. The markings of the trek can be quite tricky in some places and as I am doing it anticlockwise – it is even trickier.

I don’t find many people to talk with as everybody are going up and I am going down. That sucks. Today I walked only 12 kilometres, but still I feel tired. Probably, because of the hot sun, all that wandering and lack of snacks while walking.

I miss ‘normal’ food and the bottle of Coke is tempting me, but I try to save this moment when I come back.

I am staying in Bahundanda, a village on the top of the hill with an amazing scenery. I tried to walk around, but everyobody are disturbing me: want to talk or just to say ‘hello’, though I’m not in the mood to maintain the same conversations as everywhere. ‘Where are you from’, ‘What do you do?’, ‘Do you like Nepal’, ‘How old are you’ etc. I just don’t have patience to answer to all these questions.

I begin to think that I like green mountains more than covered with snow and ice. They maybe look more impressive, but I miss the spark you can find in the green mountains.

I wonder what it’s like to live on some slope in Himalaya. I have a feeling that teenagers who live here dream about smartphones, big cities, money and consumer way of life. I hope I’m wrong, because very soon the world will become very boring and sad place to live. Globalization will do no harm for the westerner as he is already global. But these developing countries it could change tremendously.

I lose the battle and order a Coke.

Day 17

Today I walk all the route by the side of the road, because I’m not in the mood to wander around due to bad directions. The road is ugly: trucks and cars are passing by, the road is muddy and dusty. Finally, I have to cross a dirty tunnel, fortunately there weren’t many cars at that time as there is no safety barriers for those who are going by foot.

I don’t know why, but I don’t feel any euphoria or joy that my hike is over. Maybe, because I didn’t reach the goal. But still this is my second longest hike with 180 kilometres covered.

Besisahar looked much more unpleasant than 17 days ago: dusty, noisy and grey. I stayed in a first hotel on my way. I was expecting to give myself a present and have some tasty food, but everything was Nepalese, so I bought ‘Sprite’ and chips to brighten my mood. I want to go to Kathmandu as soon as possible, but I have to stay here till tomorrow.

Day 18

Early morning bus to Kathmandu and a big, juicy burger as a reward. As I sit in the hotel – it looks like Annapurna circuit had never happened. One day I have to come back to finish all the route, though the goal is not important. The road is important. Rest are details.